Faroe Islands: Europe's Most Dramatic and Least-Visited Archipelago

Eighteen volcanic islands rising from the North Atlantic between Norway and Iceland, home to 54,000 people and approximately 70,000 sheep: the Faroe Islands are among the most geographically remote and visually overwhelming destinations in Europe. The islands sit roughly equidistant between Scotland, Norway, and Iceland, positioned on the same latitude as Bergen and Anchorage. Annual visitor numbers remain modest by European standards (around 130,000 per year), partly because getting there requires genuine effort and partly because the weather is reliably unpredictable. That combination is precisely the point. This guide covers everything needed to plan a visit, from the iconic hiking trails to the practical realities of budget and logistics.

Getting to the Faroe Islands

There are two practical routes. Atlantic Airways operates scheduled flights from Copenhagen (approximately 2 hours), Edinburgh (1 hour 45 minutes), and London Heathrow (around 2 hours 30 minutes). Fares from Copenhagen start at around DKK 700 (€94) one-way with sufficient advance booking, though the airline is small and operates limited frequencies, so prices rise sharply in summer. The airline code is RC and the main hub is Vágar Airport (FAE), the islands' only airport, located on the island of Vágar.

The alternative is the Smyril Line ferry, MF Norröna, which operates a weekly service from Hirtshals in northern Denmark via Tórshavn, the Faroese capital, to Seyðisfjörður in Iceland. The sailing from Hirtshals to Tórshavn takes approximately 36 hours. A reclining seat costs from around €60 each way; a private cabin from €150. This route suits travellers combining the Faroes with Iceland and those wanting to bring a vehicle. Book as early as possible for summer sailings, which sell out months ahead.

Tórshavn itself is connected to most of the main islands by a network of subsea tunnels, bridges, and causeways. A car is strongly recommended for exploring beyond the capital. Rental cars are available from around DKK 500 (€67) per day. The islands are small enough that most sights are reachable within an hour's drive from Tórshavn.

Sørvágsvatn: The Lake Above the Ocean

The most photographed sight in the Faroe Islands is Sørvágsvatn (also called Leitisvatn), a lake on Vágar island that appears, from certain angles, to float directly above the Atlantic. This optical illusion results from the lake sitting at 30 metres above sea level on a cliff edge, with the shoreline dropping sharply to the ocean below. The standard photograph, taken from a specific ledge on the eastern cliffside, compresses the perspective so the lake appears impossibly elevated.

Since 2019, access to the photography ledge has been managed through a guided hike system. Tickets cost DKK 300 (approximately €40) per person and must be booked in advance through the Visit Faroe Islands website. The guided hike departs from the village of Sandavágur and takes around 3 hours return, covering approximately 6 kilometres over terrain that can be very wet and exposed. Waterproof boots and layers are non-negotiable regardless of the season. The guides enforce strict rules about where visitors can stand, both for safety on the cliff edge and to protect the peat vegetation. The morning departure (typically 9am) offers the best light and smaller groups.

Gásadalur and Mulafossur Waterfall

Gásadalur is a village of fewer than 20 permanent residents on Vágar's western tip, accessible since 2004 via a 180-metre road tunnel through the mountain. Before the tunnel, villagers reached Tórshavn only by helicopter or a 3-hour mountain hike. The village sits on a shelf above the Atlantic, with Mulafossur waterfall tumbling off the cliff face directly into the sea below. The scene is one of the most reproduced landscape photographs in northern Europe. Parking is limited and the walk down to the village from the tunnel exit takes about 10 minutes on a paved path. There is no café or shop; bring supplies. The view of the waterfall is free and always accessible, though in periods of very high wind the waterfall blows horizontally rather than falling downward.

Vestmanna Bird Cliffs and the Puffins

Boat tours departing from the village of Vestmanna on Streymoy island navigate through narrow sea caves and beneath towering basalt cliffs that host one of the largest seabird colonies in the North Atlantic. Atlantic puffins, fulmars, razorbills, and guillemots nest on the cliff ledges from May through mid-August. Tours cost around DKK 450 (€60) for adults and depart two to three times daily in summer. The boat rides last approximately 1 hour 30 minutes and pass into caverns where the ceiling is only a metre or two above the water at low tide. Booking through the Vestmanna Tourist Office website is recommended in July and August. Puffins are present on the islands from late April; by late August most have departed for the open ocean.

Kirkjubøur: A Medieval Village in Use Since the 12th Century

Kirkjubøur, on the southern tip of Streymoy, was the medieval episcopal seat of the Faroe Islands and today retains one of the best-preserved collections of medieval buildings in the North Atlantic. The Cathedral of St Magnus, begun around 1300 and never completed, stands roofless on the clifftop. The smaller St Ólavur's Church, dating from the 12th century, is still in active use for services. The Kirkjubøargarður farmhouse, a timber building partly constructed in the 11th century, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited wooden houses in the world. The Patursson family has lived there for over 17 generations and currently opens it to visitors for a small fee. The site is freely accessible, with the interior tour costing around DKK 100.

The Grind: What Visitors Should Know

The grindadráp, or "grind," is the traditional Faroese drive hunt of long-finned pilot whales and Atlantic white-sided dolphins. When a pod is sighted near shore, a community-wide alert goes out and the whales are driven into a designated bay and killed. The practice is deeply embedded in Faroese culture and dates to at least the 10th century. Whale meat is distributed free within the community. It is not a tourist event: it happens when conditions permit, without schedule or announcement. Visitors may encounter it, particularly in summer. The practice is the subject of substantial international controversy and has been condemned by organisations including the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society, Sea Shepherd, and numerous EU bodies. It is entirely legal under Faroese law (the Faroes are a self-governing territory of Denmark, not an EU member). Visitors should be aware of it as context before travelling.

Budget and Best Time to Visit

The Faroe Islands are expensive by European standards. Expect to spend €150–250 per day at mid-range, including accommodation, car hire, meals, and activities. A bed in a guesthouse typically costs €70–120 per night; mid-range hotel rooms run €150–200. Restaurant meals cost €25–45 for a main course in Tórshavn. The supermarket chain Bonus (similar to Iceland Foods in the UK) makes self-catering practical and significantly cheaper.

The best time for hiking and wildlife is June through August: daylight lasts 19–20 hours, puffins are present, and the hiking trails are at their most accessible. Temperatures average 12–15°C. February and March offer the best chance of Northern Lights, with darkness returning to meaningful levels and the storms that characterise January somewhat less frequent. The islands receive around 260 days of rain per year; the concept of "bad weather" for visiting the Faroes requires adjustment, because dramatic cloud and mist are part of what the landscape offers.

Practical Information

• Accommodation: Book 3 to 6 months ahead for summer travel. The island's total bed count is limited and fills quickly once Scandinavian school holidays begin in late June.
• Currency: The Faroese króna is pegged to and interchangeable with the Danish krone (DKK). Cards are accepted almost universally.
• Language: Faroese and Danish are the official languages; English is widely spoken in the tourism sector.
• Connectivity: Mobile coverage is surprisingly good across the main islands. The subsea tunnels have no signal.
• Driving: Roads are mostly single-lane with passing places. The tunnels charge a small toll, typically DKK 95–175 per crossing.

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