Japan Travel Guide: Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Beyond

Japan is one of the world's most rewarding travel destinations and one of the most logistically different from Europe and North America. The combination of exceptional public transport, extraordinarily safe streets, a food culture of depth and variety unmatched anywhere in the world, and a consistency of service and quality that extends from convenience stores to Michelin-starred restaurants creates a travel experience unlike any other. Planning requires more advance preparation than most destinations: popular ryokan (traditional inns), some restaurants, and experiences like the teamLab digital art installations require booking weeks or months ahead. The fundamental planning decision is the Japan Rail Pass: for a standard two-week itinerary covering Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, the 14-day pass (approximately £430 per adult) typically pays for itself if you travel between cities by Shinkansen.

Tokyo (3 to 5 Days)

Tokyo rewards exploration by neighbourhood rather than by landmark. The major areas:

• Shinjuku: The city's busiest transport hub, surrounded by contrasting districts: the neon-lit Kabukicho entertainment district to the northeast, the peaceful Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden (entry ¥500, approximately £2.70) to the southeast, and the nightlife corridor of Omoide Yokocho ("Memory Lane") near the station, where tiny yakitori bars serve grilled chicken skewers under clouds of charcoal smoke.
• Shibuya: The Shibuya Scramble Crossing is the most photographed intersection in the world; best viewed from the Starbucks on the second floor of the QFront building or from the free observation point at Shibuya Sky (ticketed, approximately ¥2,000). The Shibuya Stream area and Daikanyama neighbourhood, 15 minutes' walk south, are good for independent restaurants and cafes.
• Asakusa: The old Tokyo district centred on Senso-ji temple, the city's oldest temple (free). The Nakamise shopping street leading to the temple sells traditional crafts, snacks, and tourist goods. The neighbourhood retains something of pre-war Tokyo's atmosphere.
• Harajuku and Omotesando: Takeshita Street for youth subculture and street fashion; Omotesando for high-end retail and architecture (the Prada building by Herzog & de Meuron, the Omotesando Hills complex by Tadao Ando).
• Akihabara: Electronics and anime culture. Multi-floor electronics stores (Yodobashi Camera, BIC Camera) are significant retail destinations for electronics that are often cheaper than in the UK.

Day Trips from Tokyo

• Nikko: 2 hours by limited express train. The ornate Tosho-gu shrine complex in forested mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Book onward as a half-day or full day trip.
• Hakone: 1.5 hours from Shinjuku. Views of Mount Fuji (weather-dependent), the Open Air Museum of outdoor sculpture, ryokan with onsen (hot spring baths). The Hakone Free Pass (approximately ¥6,100 for 2 days) covers the scenic round-route through Hakone by bus, ropeway, and lake cruise.
• Kamakura: 1 hour by train from Tokyo. The Great Buddha (Kotoku-in Daibutsu, 13.35 metres tall) and a compact coastal town with hiking trails connecting several hilltop temples.

Kyoto (3 to 4 Days)

Japan's ancient capital, with 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites within and around the city. Kyoto is best explored slowly: the city has approximately 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines, and many are genuinely unmissable.

• Fushimi Inari Taisha: The most photographed sight in Japan: thousands of vermilion torii gates winding up a forested mountainside. Free entry; open 24 hours. Arrive before 8am or after 5pm to avoid the densest crowds. The full loop to the summit takes approximately 2 to 3 hours.
• Arashiyama: The bamboo grove, the Tenryu-ji temple garden (entry ¥500 to ¥1,000 depending on season), and the Togetsukyo bridge. The Sagano Scenic Railway (Romantic Train) runs through the Hozugawa gorge; book in advance in cherry blossom and autumn leaf seasons.
• Gion: Kyoto's geisha district. Hanamikoji Street is the most photographed street in Kyoto; traditional ochaya (teahouses) line both sides. Geiko (Kyoto's term for geisha) and maiko (apprentice geisha) are most commonly seen in the early evening walking to evening engagements. Photography etiquette matters: do not photograph geiko or maiko without permission.
• Nishiki Market: A narrow covered market street with 130 vendors selling Kyoto specialities: pickled vegetables, sesame tofu, grilled skewers, matcha confections. Essential food destination.

Osaka (2 to 3 Days)

Osaka's reputation as Japan's food capital (Osakans use the phrase "kuidaore," meaning "eat until you drop") is justified. The city's food culture centres on Dotonbori, the neon-lit canal-side entertainment district where takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) originated, and the surrounding Namba district. Osaka Castle (rebuilt; the interior is a museum) and the Shinsekai district (a 1950s retro neighbourhood known for kushikatsu, deep-fried skewers) are the main non-food attractions.

The Japan Rail Pass

The JR Pass must be purchased outside Japan (from authorised overseas agents) before travel. The 7-day pass costs approximately £285 per adult, the 14-day approximately £430. It covers all JR trains including most Shinkansen services (the Nozomi and Mizuho fastest trains are excluded; the Hikari and Kodama services on the same routes are covered and only marginally slower). A single Shinkansen return between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka (approximately £130 each way) means a 7-day pass pays for itself with two long-distance trips plus regular JR local trains.

IC cards (Suica or Pasmo): rechargeable tap-to-pay cards used on virtually all urban rail, subway, and bus networks, and accepted as payment at convenience stores, many vending machines, and some restaurants. Available from ticket machines at most major stations.

Related: Japan Rail Pass Guide: Is It Worth Buying? | Best Time to Visit Japan: Cherry Blossom, Autumn Leaves, and Avoiding Crowds