Morocco Travel Guide: Marrakech, Fes, the Sahara, and the Atlas Mountains

Morocco sits 14 kilometres from Europe across the Strait of Gibraltar and yet presents one of the most dramatically different cultural experiences accessible from the UK. The combination of Arabic, Berber, and French cultural layers, the extraordinary architecture of its ancient medinas (walled cities), the Sahara Desert within a day's drive of the Atlantic coast, and a cuisine built on slow-cooked tagines, preserved lemon, ras el hanout spice blends, and freshly baked bread makes Morocco one of the most rewarding destinations for food and culture in the world. The medinas of Fes and Marrakech reward unhurried exploration and advance research: getting lost is the intended experience, but understanding the general geography of the souks prevents the most egregious tour tout situations.

Marrakech (3 to 4 Days)

Marrakech is the most visited city in Morocco and the one with the best-developed tourist infrastructure. The medina (old city) and Gueliz (the French-built new town) are connected by a short taxi ride; the medina is where most travellers spend the majority of their time.

• Jemaa el-Fnaa: The central square functions as the social heart of the medina and transforms throughout the day. Morning: orange juice vendors and traders. Afternoon: acrobats, storytellers (halqa), henna artists, and snake charmers. Evening: the most dramatic transformation, as dozens of food stalls materialise and the square fills with smoke from charcoal grills serving merguez, snails, and harira. Eating at the stalls costs approximately £3 to £8 for a full meal.
• The Souks: The medina's market district spreads north from Jemaa el-Fnaa through a series of specialised quarters: the copper souk (Souk des Chaudronniers), the tanneries, the spice souk (Rahba Kedima), the textile souks. The leather goods (bags, babouche slippers), ceramics, and argan oil products are the most popular purchases. Fixed-price cooperatives exist and can be preferable to the negotiation-heavy individual stalls for first-time visitors.
• Bahia Palace: A 19th-century palace complex with remarkable mosaic floors and painted cedar wood ceilings. Entry approximately 70 MAD (approximately £5.50). Less crowded in the morning.
• Jardin Majorelle: The electric-blue garden designed by French painter Jacques Majorelle, now owned by the Yves Saint Laurent Foundation. Entry 150 MAD (approximately £12); combined ticket with the YSL Museum 220 MAD. Very popular; pre-book timed entry online to avoid queues.
• Day trip: Ourika Valley and Atlas Mountains: 1 to 1.5 hours from Marrakech. The first Berber villages in the foothills, local market at Tnine-Ourika (Monday), waterfalls in the upper valley. Accessible by shared taxi (grand taxi) or organised day tour.

Fes (2 to 3 Days)

Fes (also Fez) contains the world's oldest continuously inhabited medieval city: Fès el-Bali (the old medina) has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981. The medina has approximately 9,400 streets and alleys, many too narrow for cars; donkeys remain a practical transport method in some areas. Fes is less tourist-developed than Marrakech and considered by many travellers to be the more authentic of the two, with a still-functioning traditional craft economy.

• Chouara Tanneries: The world's oldest tanneries still in operation, where leather is dyed in stone vats using traditional natural dyes (saffron for yellow, poppy for red, indigo for blue, mint for green) and pigeon excrement for softening. Viewable from the surrounding leather shop terraces for free with an obligatory leather sales pitch; the view is worth it. Bring mint to hold under your nose against the smell.
• University of al-Qarawiyyin: Founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, considered the world's oldest continuously operating university (it was reorganised by Morocco's government in 1963 but has operated continuously since its founding). The mosque and university complex is not accessible to non-Muslims but the exterior walls and the area around them are worth exploring.
• Medersa Bou Inania: A 14th-century Islamic theological school with some of the finest tilework and carved stucco in Morocco. Entry approximately 20 MAD.

The Sahara Desert (Merzouga/Erg Chebbi)

The Moroccan Sahara's most accessible and visually dramatic section is the Erg Chebbi dune field near the town of Merzouga in the southeast. The dunes rise to approximately 150 metres and extend for about 22 kilometres; the colours change dramatically through the day from pale gold in midday sun to deep orange and rose-red at sunset and sunrise.

Getting there: approximately 9 to 10 hours from Marrakech by car over the High Atlas Mountains via the Tizi n'Tichka pass (2,260m) or on an organised 3-day tour. The recommended approach is a 3-day circuit from Marrakech incorporating the Draa Valley, Dades Gorge, and Erg Chebbi, which costs approximately £150 to £250 per person for a group tour with driver/guide, accommodation, and camel trek included. Alternatively, rent a car: roads are paved throughout and a standard 2WD vehicle is sufficient for the Merzouga route.

The overnight camel trek and desert camp (£30 to £80 per person depending on camp quality) is the standard experience: ride camels into the dunes at sunset, sleep in a tent camp (from basic to luxury "glamping" options), wake for sunrise. The silence and the scale of the dunes at dawn are genuinely remarkable.

Practical Information

• Currency: Moroccan Dirham (MAD). Approximately 12 to 13 MAD per £1. Cash is essential for medinas, small restaurants, and markets; ATMs are available in all cities. Credit cards accepted at most hotels and larger restaurants.
• Getting around: CTM buses (comfortable, air-conditioned long-distance coaches) connect major cities. The Marrakech to Fes train route requires a change at Casablanca (approximately 9 hours total). Grand taxis (shared long-distance taxis, fixed routes) are the fastest point-to-point option for medium distances.
• Dress: Modest dress is appropriate in medinas and when visiting mosques. Shorts and uncovered shoulders are fine at beach resorts (Essaouira, Agadir) but will attract unwanted attention in Fes or Marrakech's medina.
• Haggling: Standard practice in souks. As a guideline, the first asking price in tourist markets is typically 3 to 5 times the fair price; a reasonable counter is 30% to 50% of the opening ask and settle from there. Fixed-price shops (often marked as such) are less stressful for first-time visitors.

Related: Tunisia Travel Guide: Tunis, Djerba, and the Sahara | Egypt Travel Guide: Cairo, Luxor, and the Red Sea